Dec 8 Thai Rail Way Overnight to Chiang Mai - don't forget to read from the bottom-up

Lots of nice rice fields in various states of growth cycles.
Our final sunset photo before turning in for the night
-- sorry Dottie, but we didn't get any photos of those
dramatic blue privacy curtains you and Amber
enjoyed. But thoroughly enjoyed the lullaby/rocking
of the train. It was comfortable and comforting.


From the window we caught sight of this monkey
community which seemed to be interested in the
passing train. Such a temptation to engage in
anthropomorphism.

Time for a photo before leaving the station. Our
seats were the last ones on the last car. It turned
into a rather cold night and these 2nd class seats
(approximately $15 US each) were a bit cold since
the windows didn't completely close.

I was recruited to help these students with their
English. They were on their way to Chiang Mai for interviews
for admission to a university. I certainly felt right
at home. They were sweet, earnest, and hopeful.

The waiting area of Hualamphong Railway Station
in Bankok where we relaxed for a few hours while
awaiting the departure of the overnight train to
Chiang Mai. Yellow shirted helpers were everywhere
available to help travelers. We even saw one diplomatically
inform a scantily-clad gringo that she might want to
cover up a bit.

Dec 7 Last full day in BanPong - saying goodbye to favorites

Our traditional evening walk along the river was a bit more
colorful than usual on this our last night before heading
north to Chiang Mai.

This happy lady was selling yummy sweet rice wrapped
in banana leaves. It's a good thing she didn't come
every day. I've already far exceeded my daily
calorie needs. But we have adopted the theory (yet
to be disproven) that everything green is good --
especially those neon green "noodles"


Will surely miss our favorite bar-b-qued chicken
place around the corner. They knew I preferred
the som tam thai (papaya salad) with no shrimp and
only one half a hot pepper and a packet of sticky rice
on the side. It always came with lots of smiles.

The lovely man had wonderful soy milk and and
other afternoon pick-me-ups and came right
to the door. He was very popular.

We spoke to Yupadee's advanced Sunday class
to give them exposure to native English speakers.
We were astounded at their comprehension and
the depth of their questions. How would you
answer "Can you tell me about the American lifestyle?
They even laughed at our jokes.

Dec 3 A Day in the Life of BanPong

Yupadee's brother has just purchased this fine old historical
mansion and compound which once belonged to a very
successful Chinese gentleman. Their father had once been
in his employ. It will take some serious renovation, but it's
a beauty with much of the fine old teak still in good
condition.


Even little kids know the protocol for honoring
the ancestors and the spirits of the house. This
one at the dentist office afforded a particularly
charming example.

Lunch with Jing at a riverside food shop near
her hospital.

A walk through the market shows a nice rice variety.


The night of the smiley moon over BanPong.
December 1, a rare alignment of moon and planets
that was photographed from several locations
on earth, and engendered much excitement
throughout our town. In the US the positions
were such that it was a frowning face.

Dec 1 Of sandpiles and Cow races

here cows are tied to a framework of poles and held
until needed for the event. It was a colorful, "lubricated"
mostly-guys event -- not unlike the Ruth Rodeo in many
respects.


We tried but were totally unable to fathom the
mechanics of the contest. It had something to
do with lining up and tying some 10 cows who ran
concentrically around a pole. Only the outside
2 cows were in the contest, the remaining 8 were
something along the line of "spaceholders"

Later that evening, we were invited to the home of
Jid's (the housekeeper) son-in-law where a local
cow race was to be held. Cows were being trucked
from neighboring farms and prepared for the night's
contests. This farmer was especially proud of
his cow and wanted a picture taken.

Here we watch the dredges come to the staging area.
There are several an hour, the sand is dumped into
shallow water and vacuumed hydraulically onto
belts that carry it to the pile.

Yupadee's brother owns some serious sand mining
operations to the north of town.
For many years they have been dredging sand from
the local landscape. There are now huge fresh
water lakes as deep as 14 story houses.
To say they have altered the ecology is an understatement.

Nov. 30 - Making merit with 1500 monks

Up at five to arrive at 6:00 with our baskets full of
donations to the monks. Actually it will go to the
temples in the south we were told. I guess we believe it.

Numerous and assorted civic groups attend to show
their support. These nurse students are much like
those we taught 5 years ago. Of course all our
students have long since graduated.

The main street was closed and covered with
plastic in this highly organized and choreographed
event. The 1500 monks were bussed in from Bangkok.
The public wore white.

Then they symbolically walked up the street and
down collecting donations from every person there.
The donations were placed in the monk's bowls which,
when full, were emptied into large plastic bags
handled by student soldiers in uniform. Later huge
trucks were loaded with the bags of noodles,
cans of sardines, and assorted foods. There was a
lot of rice which spilled and was enjoyed by the local birds.

Nov 29 Getting Down to Business

Yupadee's two best 5th grade students are given
the task of teaching me some basic Thai language.
It's a stretch for this old brain, but they make it fun
and get a bit of English practice in the bargain. They
come twice a week for an hour. I learn numbers,
colors, time, foods, and how to say "I am lost."

Keith visits the kindly dentist who is also a good
friend of Yupadee's. With good directions from his
Fortuna dentist including some pointing, they were
able to communicate and a very fine appliance
was prepared.

3 weeks later, a new smile.

Thought you'd like to see the office front. Not fancy
but the work is quality. About one tenth of what it
would cost at home.

Nov.28 Bicycle day

The view from our morning shower -- a cat curled
up in the awning between the rows of shop houses behind us.

Roger meets us on our bikes and takes us to
this nice river front restaurant.

Peg practices on Yupadee's town bike. It all comes back.

Keith is given several words of caution about using
this bike which belongs to Jing's brother. Ban Pong
traffic can be fearful if you are not used to it.

Nov. 27 Dedication of Family donation to Temple

Yupadee's family commissioned this fine building
for their local temple. It will be used to house funeral
celebrations. It was made in the honor of their
father who died about 10 years ago and mother
who died 2 years ago.

Yupadee's younger sister, Wan and husband,
Pucket, from Bangkok.

The monks gave an inspiring chant. Both brother
Sombat and wife, NaPa, are seated in the front row.
The cat was there to keep order.

The morning started with a fancy dress parade
in front of our house. (apparently not related to
the family dedication) It seemed to feature several
schools of young kids. The little majorette in
the front will have some sore toes I think from
those big boots.

Nov 26. lunch near the orchid farm

Peg's absolute favorite Thai dish: Som Tam Thai
(papaya salad without shrimp) and sticky rice. MMMM.

Across from Yupadee's school is an orchid farm.
The owner gave us a tour.

Yupadee's brother is mayor of the municipality
and lives here. Yupadee has started living here also.

Yupadee picks out the grilled fish. It was stuffed
with stalks of lemon grass. Very pleasant.

Nov 25 Bat caves and nearby temple

at dusk every evening millions, yes that's millions,
of bats exit their cave over the period of an hour
and spend the night devouring mosquitos. Yay bats!

The requisite temple on a hill with breathtaking
panoramic countryside below.

This soapstone carving and two associate dragons
of the same ilk, graced the lovely cool teakwood
floor of the temple. Charming guys. Cuddly

More bells than you can shake a stick at. We did anyway.
Lovely sound. Relaxes the soul.